Serena’s Travels

Well, aside from the fact that we get to go on, or at least try to, there is a rather unpublicized measure in the approved bail out bill that deserves major attention. It wasn’t in the first plan that was turned down, either.

The U. S. of A. has extended solar tax credits! These were up in December, and due to the fact that they weren’t scheduled to be re-inacted, were responsible for several big deals turned away. (Including a Chinese businessman in the solar business reversing plans to open in the US — the opposite of what we usually see with our companies going over seas, I wrote about this in a previous posting, here). Now I am hoping that guy, and others, will reconsider and bring business here, green energy business, that is. Thanks to all the congressmen and women who held up the bill and insisted it include a lengthening of tax credits for solar using and solar producing companies. This measure alone will influence the world and show that the US is at least doing something right, something in the realm of leadership. Hoorah, even in times of uncertain environment and economy.

We’ve got 7 more years of guaranteed green energy incentive! READ the whole drill here.

There are 21 known species of the biggest seabirds on earth, the Albatross. 19 of them are on the endangered species, too close to extinction.

Photo courtesy: www.anu.edu.au

I’ve long loved these majestic, smooth-feathered flyers; in fact they are my favorite bird. They fish in varied climates, from Hawaii to sub-arctic waters. When they are teenagers they get funny frizzy Mohawks, which molt away as they learn how to take to the sky. Their parents have one new baby chic every two or three years, and take special care of their young compared to many other species of aviator.

Photo courtesy: www.birdingnz.co.nz

Irresponsible long line fishing is 97% of the reason for the population decimation, but there are ways fishers can still do their work while protecting Albatross. One plan, a 24-page summary created by concerned scientists and veteran fishers, gives the tech-talk behind the issues of bycatch: birds getting caught in fishers baited hooks.

Put as simply as I can gather from my limited expertise on fishing, there are two primary ways to do the kind of long line fishing most popular in Albatross habitats, pelagic and demersal. Pelagic is baited hooks attached to monofiliment lines and “leaders” up to 35 meters long. They are spaced at intervals along the line, with a buoy ever 5 to 10 hooks, leaving lines near the surface. On the other hand, demersals are about 40 cm long, fixed to a mainline every 1 or 2 meters, with more hooks per unit of pelagic gear. This strategy takes longer, but it sinks under the surface, so no hooks are within reach of sea birds except for the moment after they are deployed from the stern.

Diagram courtesy: www.afma.gov.au

But it takes more than one thing or another to reduce “seabird bycatch” where Albatross get hooked up when they go for the fishers bait. Here is a list of a few things, that when employed, reduce bycatch by over 90%.

-Shrink seabird access window behind fishing vessel either by weighing the line, or delivering bait below the water surface, deep enough so birds can’t access it, as close to the stern as possible.
-scare away birds from bait with streamers
-make baits cryptic by dying the bait or wrapping them so they aren’t recognizable as food

-manipulate offal derived from fish processing to minimize interaction between setting bait and hauling catch

-change the area closure times of fishing regions to make fishing seasons different from breeding time for birds when they are most excited about getting extra grub
(There are also special knots used to attach bait in Hawaii that reduce seabird bycatch.)

These are the streamers used to ward off hungry seabirds.

Picture courtesy: www.oceansatlas.org

I wish fish markets knew which types of fish came from boats that employed a combination of these techniques, but the best way to ensure what you are eating is Albatross safe is to avoid Blue Marlin, Black Marlin, Striped Marlin, Sailfish, Amberjack, Grouper, Wahoo, Pompano, Bluefin Trevally, Yellowfin Tuna, Jack, Peacock Bass, Cubera Snapper, Shark, Mahi Mahi, Sturgeon and Halibut, and go for seafood that is certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch or another reliable certification body.

photo courtesy: www.afishblog.com

How do I decide between two of my favorite San Francisco annual festivals Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival and Litquake Literary Fest?

Both kick off tonight, and both promise an amazing evening of inspiring sounds. Luckily, they both keep on keepin’ on throughout the weekend and following week, so it isn’t a one-night-only issue.

At 5:15 Alison Krauss will be on the Golden Gate Park’s Banjo Stage, and Sunday, Emmylou Harris plays on the same stage at 5:45pm. Get there early, whichever night you choose, and take a set, munch on your picnic dinner and high-five friends that a free concert can be this good.

Litquake’s opening night at Herbst Theater hosts Will Durst, Adam Savage, Jonathan Ames and Neal Pollack, but every night through the 10th there are a slew of themed events at several locations, the culmination being the LitCrawl on October 11th.

Don’t make excuses, just go!

Today California took another couple steps towards going green.

Ground was broken on what hopes to be a Gold LEED certified Oakland skyscraper, caddy-corner to Oakland Marriot.

And, Arnold signed an anti-sprawl bill to mimic the sucessful building strategies that make population density, and access to public transit and shopping, work in European cities. Benecia has some great examples, and a tight-knit complex in Point Richmond made of re-purposed wooden shingles. Keep your eyes out for more of these environmentally-friendly developments, which promote many kinds of benefit. More green space can be alloted for flora and fauna to roam, building supplies are greener and energy saving appliances, including links to sustainable energy are used, people interact in closer communities with common interests, less cars are used and local businesses get a boost. Can’t go wrong with this kind of conscientious development!

More info: http://www.nrdc.org/media/2008/080902.asp

Summer festivities and street fairs have come and gone, but Rockridge Out and About welcomes the autumn season with open arms. Come join musicians, chefs, artisans, green businesses and a friendly neighborhood crowd and celebrate the end of summer with a community gathering of epic proportions.

Here’s all the details, GrassRoutes will be in the Green Expo section, so stop by and say “Hi!”

Mendocino’s Brewery Gulch is the redwood oasis you dream of when you think of the California Coast. The lux accommodations are built of redwoods, but not the freshly chopped kind. These logs were the largest ones, some with 15-foot trunks, which had sunk when they were originally felled in the late 1800’s. When these trunks were discovered at the Big River bottom, they were hauled to the surface once more, and instead of being shipped down to San Francisco to become a new pink lady, they stayed here, to become one of the most sought-after hotels in the area.

Brewery Gulch has more tricks up its sleeve: recycled cork board under the carpets help with damping acoustics, organic cotton towels and bedding make the rooms pesticide-free, chemical-free cleaning products and local produce in the kitchen are a few other measures the hotel has taken to be one with the surrounding environment.

Between the epic gulch view from the cozy back porch and the wild turkey-dotted lawn out front, the place is lush with life. Brewery Gulch is suited best for couples, or writers needing a respite from the busy world. Daily wine hours include a buffet of local seafood, fresh vegetables and organic fruit, plus the winemakers themselves show up on summer Fridays to chat with visitors. Breakfast is just as luxurious, homemade holandaise bennies and rich mango lassis share the menu with healthy fruit and granola or smoked salmon scrambles.

Use the place as a jumping off point for winery excursions south on 128, or to explore the town of Mendocino, or just stay in, warm your toes by the fire, catch up on all those books you’ve been meaning to read, or take a plunge into the best video collection I’ve yet found at a US hotel.

Details: 9401 North Highway One, Mendocino, 707.937.4752, www.brewerygulchinn.com

The kick off to Oakland’s new Waterfront Plaza Hotel was celebrated last night, in high style. Here’s my take on the spot, photos courtesy www.waterfrontplaza.com:

Oakland’s picturesque waterfront at Jack London Square was just waiting for a hotel like this.

The newly remodeled Waterfront Hotel sweeps around the shoreline with fresh, stylish rooms and all the amenities you’ll find at San Francisco’s posh spots. Upon entering, await your room by the huge copper fireplace, or by the pool with bay views.

Suites come equipped with comfy orange sofas and maritime-inspired art and wallpaper, including a chic take on a wooden oar. Ask for a room on the fifth floor, where the balcony wraps the entire building providing prime sunset viewing even if you room isn’t facing towards the west.

For parties and bridal celebrations, the penthouse is irrisistable. A shiny shell chandelier hovers over the dining table, several fireplaces and a full living room will make you want to move in for good, and the price is decidedly lower than San Francisco’s comparable lux accommodations. The location is ideal, perched next to fine dining (including Miss Pearl’s, the hotel restaurant with Cajun flair), world-class jazz and kayak rentals, with public transit a stones throw away. If I wasn’t snooping around Oakland most of my days I’d put up here for a swank night in my favorite city.

Details:10 Washington Street, Jack London Square, 836.3800, www.waterfrontplaza.com

I write and recommend many spectacular eating experiences all up and down the West Coast, and some day in the not-so-distant future, the East Coast and regions abroad, but I need to preface, or shall I say footnote, a few underlying issues that should not be overlooked when ordering your next tasty meal at one of these splendid dining rooms.

Keep in mind that I order carefully at these spots, avoiding the kinds of dishes I know can’t be sustained. Our huge appetites for certain entrees have decimated the  natural environment of many animals, and coupled with the over-sized portions in which we like consuming them, it is a recipe for disaster. Here’s the hot list of menu items to avoid, even at green restaurants that do take a lot into consideration when planning where they source food:

Shrimp: Big No No! Even the wild caught ones are responsible for riots in Thailand, Vietnam and Brazil and the breakdown of crucial Madrone Forests (like the ones missing from Louisiana coastline that would have protected New Orleans from the big K). Unless it is caught in small quantities, IN AMERICA (less than 2% of all shrimp meet the criteria), it is a No Go.

Tuna: In ALL forms. Sorry folks, but are you going to tell me that even though these important predator fish occupy less than half of the ocean habitat they did some 15 years ago that there is a sustainable way to eat them? What’s more, the farmed ones – which are diseased, antibiotic-ridden and often genetically modified – are escaping their “enclosed” ocean farms in droves, affecting the wild salmon that are managing to survive out there.

Big Fin Fish: Marlin, Sword Fish, Sail Fish, big predators… these guys are in even worse shape than the tuna. Avoid at all cost, even if you can’t go without the two above mentioned sea creatures.

Most Beef: Again, sorry, but we’ve got to get our facts straight here. Beef is the main reason for deforestation, soil pollution and though my research isn’t 100% conclusive, heart disease as well. If you are going to indulge, keep it to antibiotic-free, locally farmed cattle and in portions no bigger than 6 ounces. Please!

(There are a handful that have overcome the urge to cater to everyone, and leave anything they deem not sustainable off the menu entirely and for that they will receive special accolades in my guidebooks; a few examples: Ubuntu (Napa), Raven’s (Mendocino), Camino (Oakland), Pizziolo (Oakland), Sea Salt (Berkeley), Eccolo (Berkeley), Earth and Ocean (Seattle), The Farm (Portland), Millenium (San Francisco) and a handful of others, most of them vegetarian because few red-blooded restaurants will step up to the plate and stick with squid, catfish and the odd free range chicken or duck).

Thanks for heading the call!

I often travel solo. My time exploring the best of the West Coast is far too lengthy to invite along my honey, stealing him from his work. But just because I travel solo, doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of places that inspire memories, and offer imaginings of future romantic excursions — this trip has been choc full of them. Mendocino and Sonoma counties are both rich with marriage opportunities, there are guidebooks galore pontificating on the perfect setting for your most memorable moment. But my philosophy is different, I like to make many so-called once-in-a-lifetime experiences with my main man, and sprinkle them over seemingly mundane mornings, lunchtimes and evenings. Romance lasts a lifetime, and here in California Wine Country there are a plethora of avenues for us romantics, that don’t need an occasion at all to celebrate our communion. Plus, these spots care as much for the visitor’s experience as their effect on the surrounding community and environment.

Kenwood Inn and Spa
In order to fully focus on your partner, it is sometimes necessary to escape from the hullabaloo of daily life. Kenwood Inn and Spa is just such a place, where it is effortless to forget the woes of the world and simply be in the moment with your partner. Ideally suited for a few nights (you won’t want to leave after just one), this getaway is surrounded by native walnut trees and lush vineyards, secluded in a way that is earth-friendly, but doesn’t demand constant contemplation on anything other than yourself – your “castle” has to be in tip top shape to be of much use in the big wide world after all… Take the time to refresh and rejuvenate in a series of saline hot tubs and mystical fountains that breath life into the abundant plant life and also your own sensibilities. A jovial bartender will cater to your drink preferences at the guest-only wine bar, cascading waterfalls and fountains pervade the atmosphere and apples, picked from the Inn’s own trees await you taste buds. In the high-ceiling rooms there are no distractions, no TV to take your attention away from your lover. Tuscan-style frescos and in-room fireplaces cozy the gracious spaces, jetted-hot tubs greet weary, over-worked bodies and the chatter of squirrels bragging about a big walnut treasure chest is about the only commotion to be had. At the spa, soaking tubs for couples, complete with hilly winery views and a trellised dual-massage space, make for a substantial contribution to the well being of you and the apple of your eye. The winding gardens and secluded spaces are distinctly removed from the rest of Sonoma exploration, although if you wiggle through the main lobby (where port and a warm fire always await), or the spa reception area, you can get out and into the wealth of fine dining, historical explorations and natural wonders of the countryside. I recommend saving up your pennies and indulging in a triple crown: three days of luxury accommodations with a spa treatment and unlimited access to chemical-free pools and unbeatable hospitality. I may be gushing, but trust me, there is a reason for it. Go find out for yourself.

MacCallum House
Next time my honey bear invites me to dinner and a movie over a long weekend I’m jetting up to Mendocino to show him my idea of a good time. I’m determined to take him to MacCallum House and their wine-savvy restaurant, which finally does justice to the many world-class wines produced in their home county. I’ve long been working on a hypothesis that the reason it has taken so long for California’s viticultural greatness to be known all over the globe is because the all-too-often watered-down taste buds of chefs and eaters alike have underestimated the wines. Food hasn’t been good enough to stand up to the wines, especially in rural areas, Mendocino included. But a slice of city elegance, foodie snootiness (if you’ll allow me), and local charm is encapsulated in a MacCallum experience. (All they need to do is donate their unforgivably thick wine glasses to worthy cause.) Staying and dinning, in unison is a must. The rooms — the Barn lodging’s my favorite — include stone fireplaces with ready-made fires, built with kindling and newspaper, plus a few logs so all you have to do is light a match (even if your hubby is an eagle scout like mine). Plush beds and pumps of lemon verbena paraben-free soaps and lotions are easy on the environment, and all of the cleaning products are tested thoroughly for eco-friendliness before being put into use. Jetted-tubs make the garden-enclosed hot tub unnecessary. In the restaurant, housed in the original MacCallum home circa 1886, the wine tasting menu is a must. Alan, the chef, himself a New York-trained culinary guru, likes local Liberty duck more than anything, glazing and braising it to perfection. I can, and will, commit to a complete breakdown of his prowess, which fully lives up to the wines he pairs, like fine Titus zinfandel, among California’s top incarnations of this easy-to-spoil American grape, or sultry Chard from the Santa Lucia highlands (Look for my review of the restaurant in a future blog, and in the forth-coming Green Road Trip to Northern California Wine Country, Spring 2009). Whether you blindfold your honey and steal away to MacCallum, or you’re here for just a typical vacation, there’s no way a spot like this can come and go in your life story without a few punctuation marks; my guess is that they’ll be exclamations.

Mendocino Botanic Gardens
In a world where busy-ness is often the norm, and tech gadgets, sold to us to make our lives more simple actually add to our already stretched schedules, a waltz through these sprawling gardens is a breath of fresh air, figuratively and literally. Gazing at a collage of heather blossoms, at the sage-colored big-leaved rhododendrons, and the mellifluous display of dahlia fireworks, just around the corner from cormorant-scattered ocean bluffs is a soulful escape — a real dreamland. A complex weaving of paved and wood chip covered paths, ensconced in a living museum of native flora, give my mind a rest, like I am in a safe place here on this ever-changing planet. Whether you are jogging at the park’s early hours, or simmering your passions over a coastal sunset, alive with the sights and smells that draw so many travelers to this quiet coast, it is impossible not to “ooh” and “ah” at our world from the vantage point of this treasured garden.

What they do: Recycle, compost, use 100% eco-friendly cleaning and laundering products, pay competitive salaries to workers (including the cleaning staff), source ingredients locally (and in some cases organically), re-use and re-purpose items, renovate historic buildings, maintain wildlife and native plants,  and encourage guests to follow their example when back home.

I’ve packed a lot into this past week of Mendocino County travels.

Here are a few of my top picks (and a peeves too, for good measure):

Shambhala Ranch
As the saying goes, “it’s not the destination but the journey that matters,” so too with Shambhala Ranch, named for the owners’ dual vision of heaven on earth. Getting to this remote spot is a prerequisite, a requirement for the abundance of peaceful, serene beauty that could only be had at such lengths from civilization. I rounded the bald, golden mounds of soil and sandstone, the fringes of evergreens, passing Orr Hot Springs and several fluttering quail to find the carved wooden sign and the welcoming oak tree at Shambhala’s entrance. Tara was in her garden as I pulled up, and before I could get my bearings I was eating tomatoes from her carefully-pruned plants. Inside, an eclectic collection of world masks and Tibetan thangkas hung around the redwood structure, made from wood felled on the land. We walked to the private beach and waterfall at Big River, ate apples and figs from her orchard, and found Jupiter and Cassiopeia even in the night light of the full moon. Seventeen years ago Tara told her friends about her dream to open a retreat center, and they gave her the digits of a friend from whom they’d heard the same vision. A year and a half later they were married and looking for land. And when they found this place they knew it was their Shambhala. Later, when they contracted an archaeoligcal inspection, they found areas where 2000 years of native American rituals had been taking place. Apparently, they weren’t the only ones who felt this place had a certain spiritual je ne sais quoi. Here I dine with the person who cooked my food and the gardener who grew it. I gaze over a pond, hoping to see the otters play. It is a grand place for a total retreat, where 40 acres of preserved redwoods shelter the stumps from trees floated downstream for timber 100 years ago. And sleeping in a bed where there is no electric current is a deeper, gentler nights rest. The place is a living home, with ample space for many kinds of gatherings, from a shrine-like outdoor sleeping quarters to an indoor dance studio, to a surround sound porch. There aren’t many frills, and interaction with others staying there is unavoidable, unless you are the only ones staying, which could be the case on a mid-week off-season night. Stay for at least 3 days, hike the property, bathe in the river and get back in touch with nature, and yourself.

Mendocino Hotel
A place as old as this should have gone through many incarnations, (and behind the scenes, it has), but the look and feel of the late-1800’s inn and saloon is as intact as an old Western film. I stepped under the yellow clapboard façade and entered like I myself was a logger of old, searching in the dim lights and musty aroma for a bottle of whiskey. Instead, I found a cheery Deena behind the beveled-glass reception desk, and a blush-colored canopy bed in my room facing the ocean. The wall paper, light fixtures, bath tub and armoire all echo of days gone by, the very days that have gone by in this seaside village. It is lovely to experience not only a far-off place, but also times gone by. Walking to shops and restaurants is a breeze since “the hotel,” as it is called around town, is the central landmark. And it is where locals come to grub too; when I searched for Internet in the woodsy-colored lobby I chanced upon several bubbly Mendo residents, taking their supper in one of the wing-backed, window-side chairs. Calling down to the desk for help with bathtub plugging and directions might require a few tries, but service is friendly. I recommend room 24, not a suite, but equipped with the best view I’ve yet seen in this town, and a private, footed bathtub.

Café Beaujolais and the Brickery
Once upon a time I was a flower girl at a wedding here in Mendocino, frolicking in my purple rose-covered dress and staying in a big white house with my mother. On mornings we went down to the seaside to harvest kelp bulbs and fill the bathtub with them as props for bath time. When we got hungry, we walked to Café Beaujolais for fresh squeezed orange juice and “morning food,” a term they practically coined. Now, on my return, they are a lunch and dinner place, with only a Morning Food cookbook at the hostess stand as a reminder of the breakfasts of yore. Now, you pop your head into the window at the Brickery, across the garden, for morning loaves of bread and crispy-crusted bagels. Inside the restaurant is food, real food. Eggs Benedict with authentic Mornay sauce smothered over Red Seal Rye, straight from the Brickery. Vegan butternut squash risotto laced with locally foraged mushrooms and kale, so tasty the v-word need not be mentioned. Wine pairings from Nelson Family and Estrelina were especially good, and I recommend you put your trust in chef/owner David’s hands with your vino choices. The annex, an elevated, glass-enclosed dining room, feels as though it were made for proposals, or to give a new shine to every day romance. Fragrant climbing roses and veils of maroon maple and lacy juniper look as though they are about to envelope the room with jungle-like lushness and sweet perfume. Cashew poppy seed pie crusts and homemade ice cream seal the deal for dessert, giving David yet another opportunity to prove his prowess with pairing; there are many good dessert wines on the menu. Follow the garden path to this special café, maybe not to gather kelp for your bath, but certainly to make your own memories.

Mendocino Historic Review Board
I am getting conflicting information here. On the one hand, Mendocino claims to be the greenest county. On the other, a place of historic preservation and small town charm. And why these ideas can’t co-exist is, as my mother would say, “beyond me.” As I trapse around the short blocks of Mendocino proper, I see no solar panels. When I inquire at the Mendocino Garden Store which bears a large Zap Car sign, they say they are no longer allowed to rent electric vehicles. And why is all this? The Zap Rental looked like an ugly used-car dealership; solar panels take away from the original structures and make the skyline unsightly. That is, according to the Mendo Historic Review Board. Apparently it is due to strict history-maintaining ordinances, which seem to do more harm than good to a town caught in the middle of global climate changes. All over town I hear whispers of the whale migration patterns shifting, of wicked weather and of varying climate, yet the very system set up to preserve the town is a part of what makes it more vulnerable, and less responsible. I appreciate the buildings remaining intact, and also the history of the village, but just like anything, updating as we get new information is critical to survival (and also the definition of sanity —  insanity being doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting different results). My sincere hope is that this review board gets with the picture, so we can come back and be taking pictures here for generations to come.