Grimaldi’s in Brooklyn

Waiting in excessively on lines for comfort food is a strange source of pride for many New Yorkers. The long lines for cupcakes at Magnolia and the burgers and Shake Shack are easily consumed within five minutes of procuring them, yes busy, impatient Manhattanites wll often take up to an hour of their day waiting to do so. Across the river, however, the lines for Grimaldi’s Pizza, famously situated under the grandiose arch of the Brooklyn Bridge, may well beat them all.

Just a stone’s throw away from River Café, the most expensive restaurant in Brooklyn, Grimaldi’s offers classic New York thin crust pizzas – a meal for two for under $20. The restaurant’s shabby green awning advertises its “coal brick oven” and a phone number sans area code (rarely answered), while a hand-written sign on the door warns the uninformed that “no slices” are offered. If you think you’re going to beat the lines at an off hour, like 3 pm on a Wednesday, you’re sadly mistaken.

But for those who remain undeterred and wait, they will eventually be seated at communal tables, surrounded by black and white photos of old Brooklyn and (occasionally signed) pictures of even older celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Joe DiMaggio.

The pizzas themselves emerge fast and fresh. Crust lightly charred, they hold delicately crushed tomatoes, smoky homemade mozzarella, and whole basil leaves. Traditional toppings from pepperoni to anchovies are offered, but unnecessary additions to the perfection of Grimaldi’s original pie. Eat it quickly before the papery crust loses its crispness (this is no pizza to take home in a doggiebag for tomorrow’s breakfast).

Wine is available, but don’t plan on lingering over a bottle after you’ve finished your pizza. As the waiters will remind you without subtlety, the masses await outside, hungry and ready to fill your seats.

Good Idea

Don’t stress over waiting in lines. Sometimes it is half the fun, and a chance to meet new people or get into curious conversations. Maybe you’ll find out about a new bar that just opened that serves sorrel sours, or something else fantastic-sounding. At Grimaldi’s the line is part of the process, one I’ve come to relish almost as much as their pizza pies. Especially when I get to wait with Ariella!

Deets

Under the Brooklyn Bridge: 19 Old Fulton Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201, 718.858.4300, open Sun – Thurs 11:30-11:00 pm and Fri & Sat 11:30-12:00 am. More info:

• www.grimaldis.com